1. The Armenian Highland, An Ancient Kingdom Blooming at the Crossroads of Civilization

Armenia is a small country located south of the Caucasus Mountains. Its area is approximately 29,743 square kilometers, about the size of Gyeonggi Province in Korea. The geographical features and natural environment this small land possesses are very unique and beautiful. The place marked as Yerevan in the map below is the capital of Armenia.

Armenia is located on a highland. The region called the Armenian Highlands does not simply refer to the current Republic of Armenia. Historically, this highland refers to a vast area centered on present-day Armenia but including eastern Turkey, northwestern Iran, southern Georgia, and parts of Azerbaijan. From ancient times, the highland was the homeland of the Armenian people and the space where their culture and identity were formed.

The average elevation of the highland ranges from 1,500 to 2,000 meters above sea level. Considering that Korea's Seorak Mountain's Daecheong Peak is 1,708 meters above sea level, Armenians live their daily lives at the height of Korea's high mountain summit. In fact, the capital of Armenia, Yerevan (Երևան), is located at an altitude of approximately 1,000 meters. Because of this high elevation, Armenia has the nickname 'a country close to heaven.'

The Armenian Highland is geologically a very dynamic region. This is where the African and Eurasian plates meet, and crustal movements have been active over long periods. As a result, high mountain ranges and deep gorges were created, and volcanic activity was also intense. Even today, earthquakes occasionally occur in this region. The major earthquake that struck Spitak in northern Armenia in 1988 left a tragedy that claimed the lives of more than 25,000 people.

Traces of this volcanic activity can be found throughout Armenia. Black volcanic rocks are scattered across the land, and many buildings are constructed from this volcanic stone. Mount Ararat, a symbol of Armenia, is actually a massive volcano. Although it now belongs to Turkish territory, this mountain remains a sacred mountain imbued with the soul of the Armenian people.

The climate of the Armenian Highland is typical continental. Summers are hot and dry, while winters are cold with heavy snow. Because of the high elevation, nights become cool even in summer, and there are significant climate differences by region. The Ararat Plain, where Yerevan is located, has a relatively mild climate, but the northern mountainous regions have very cold and long winters, sometimes covered in snow for more than six months.

Several rivers cross the highland. The Aras River is like the lifeblood of Armenia. It originates in eastern Turkey, flows along Armenia's southern border while forming the boundary with Azerbaijan, and flows into the Caspian Sea. Historically, the Aras River basin was a fertile agricultural area and the center of Armenian civilization.

Another river is the Hrazdan River. This river originates from Armenia's largest lake, Lake Sevan, flows through Yerevan, and runs into the Aras River. Lake Sevan is a massive freshwater lake located at an elevation of 1,900 meters, with an area of approximately 1,240 square kilometers. This is about 18 times the size of Korea's Lake Soyang. Lake Sevan is like the source of life to the Armenian people, used for drinking water, irrigation water, and hydroelectric power generation.

The landscape around Lake Sevan is spectacular. Beyond blue rippling waters, snow-capped mountain peaks spread out like a folding screen, and ancient monasteries stand by the lakeshore, bearing the weight of time. Sevanavank Monastery, built in the 9th century, looks down at the lake from a hill above, observing Armenia's history.

The nature of the Armenian Highland shows a different face each season. When spring comes, the entire highland is covered with wildflowers. Red poppies, yellow dandelions, and purple irises are embroidered like fine needlework on the green carpet, blooming beautifully. In summer, wheat and barley ripen to golden color under intense sunlight, and orchards of grapevines and apricot trees release sweet fruit fragrance in the air.

When autumn arrives, the highland is painted in red and golden autumn leaves. The forest landscape of Dilijan National Park (Դիլիջան) seems like a world from a fairy tale. Between dense oak and beech trees, a small stream flows gently, and you can see wild deer quietly grazing. Dilijan is called 'the Switzerland of Armenia' for its beautiful scenery.

When winter comes, the highland is covered with white snow. The cold winter is a part of daily life for Armenians. They ski on snow-covered mountains, and within warm homes, family members gather and share stories. On winter evenings, they light fires in fireplaces and cook harisa (Հարիսա), a traditional food. Harisa is a porridge-like dish made by slowly stewing wheat and meat for a long time, essential for enduring the cold winter.

The flora and fauna of the Armenian Highland are also diverse. Because this region is located at the crossroads of Europe, Asia, and the Middle East, species from all three regions are found here. Goats, wild boar, wolves, bears, and lynx mammals live here, and birds of prey such as eagles, hawks, and storks are also abundant. The mouflon (Մուֆլոն), the symbolic animal of Armenia, is a type of wild sheep with massive horns and is a beautiful animal.

There are over 3,500 plant species, of which about 10% are endemic species found only in the Armenian Highland. The yellow daffodil called Masao, the national flower of Armenia, is also a specialty plant of this region. This area is also one of the origins of wild wheat and one of the earliest regions where humanity began agriculture.

The Armenian Highland also contains abundant mineral resources. Copper, molybdenum, gold, and silver are found here, and copper has been mined since ancient times and played an important role in Armenia's economy. Some theories suggest that the name Armenia itself derives from the Latin word 'aeramen,' meaning copper. Tuff, a beautiful volcanic stone, is a major material in Armenian architecture, and buildings constructed from this pinkish-hued stone have created Armenia's distinctive architectural beauty.

It is also geopolitically very significant. The Silk Road, an ancient trade route connecting Europe and Asia, passed through here and served as a crossroads linking southern Persia, western Rome, eastern Central Asia, and northern Russia. Because of this geographical position, Armenia was influenced by diverse cultures, but at the same time, it had to endure endless invasions and wars.

The geographical features of the Armenian Highland have profoundly influenced the character and culture of the Armenian people. The rugged mountainous terrain made them strong and nurtured their indomitable spirit in fighting against external invasions. At the same time, the terrain divided by high mountains and deep valleys developed unique dialects and cultures in each region. A strong sense of community, helping one another and living together in difficult natural environments, developed.

Today, more than 90% of Armenia's national territory is highland above 1,000 meters elevation. Flat land areas are very limited, creating difficulties in agriculture. The Armenian people overcame these harsh conditions and created terraced farmland to cultivate fruits such as grapes, apricots, and peaches. Armenian Cognac is renowned worldwide, made from grapes grown in vineyards on the Ararat Plain.

The nature of the Armenian Highland is a space imbued with the Armenian people's identity, history, and culture. Every single thing,the rugged mountain ranges and deep valleys, the blue lakes and clear rivers, and the wildflowers that bloom within,all carry Armenia's story. For thousands of years, this highland is not merely a place of residence for the Armenian people who have guarded this land; it is a sacred ground imbued with their soul.

2. Mount Ararat,A Sacred Mountain of Mythology and National Spirit

Mount Ararat is a mountain in which the soul of Armenia is contained. This massive volcano, consisting of Greater Ararat at 5,137 meters tall and Lesser Ararat at 3,896 meters, can be seen from anywhere in Yerevan. The sight of Mount Ararat, blushed red by the morning sun, signals to the Armenian people the sacred beginning of each day.

There is a painful history. Mount Ararat currently belongs to Turkish territory. After the Soviet Union transferred sovereignty of this mountain to Turkey through the Moscow Treaty and the Treaty of Kars in 1921, the Armenian people have been unable to freely visit the mountain of their soul, only able to gaze upon it. Armenians say with sorrow, 'We can see Mount Ararat, but we cannot touch it.'

The mountain is a symbol of the Armenian nation and their very identity. The National Emblem of Armenia features Mount Ararat in the center with Noah's Ark placed above it. This clearly shows how important Mount Ararat is to the Armenian people.

The history of Mount Ararat reaches back to biblical times. In the Book of Genesis in the Old Testament, it is recorded that Noah's Ark came to rest 'on the mountains of Ararat' after the Great Flood. This 'Ararat' has traditionally been believed to refer to Mount Ararat. Although 'Ararat' in the Bible referred to the entire region where the Kingdom of Urartu existed, not a mountain name, people came to regard this massive mountain as the place where Noah's Ark rested.

According to Armenian tradition, Noah's Ark came to rest on the summit of Mount Ararat after the flood, and Noah's descendants descended from here to establish civilization. There is a legend that Hayk (Հայկ), the great-grandson of Noah, became the founder of the Armenian people. Hayk was a giant and brave warrior who fought against Bel, a tyrant of Babylon, defeated him, and settled in the land of Armenia. The Armenian people refer to themselves as 'Hayer (Հայեր),' meaning 'descendants of Hayk.'

Because of this mythology, Mount Ararat is regarded by the Armenian people not as a simple mountain but as a sacred mountain, a place where life began anew. In the records of medieval Armenian historians, there are accounts of attempts to climb Mount Ararat. According to legends, God did not permit humans to reach the remains of the Ark. Those who attempted to climb the mountain were said to fall back down again through some strange force, or they became lost and wandered without direction.

As the modern era began, people succeeded in climbing Mount Ararat. In 1829, Dr. Friedrich Parrot, a German, became the first to successfully ascend the mountain, and many explorers have since climbed it. They sought to find remains of the Ark, but no scientifically verifiable evidence has been discovered. To this day, expeditions to find remains of the Ark continue.

Mount Ararat is also geologically fascinating. It is a stratovolcano formed between 3.6 million and 2.5 million years ago. Lava and volcanic ash from multiple eruptions accumulated, creating the massive mountain we see today. The last eruption occurred in 1840, when a major earthquake and landslide destroyed the village of Ahuri and its monastery at the base of the mountain.

The summit of Greater Ararat is covered with perpetual snow year-round. Temperatures near the summit remain below freezing even in summer, and in winter drop below negative 30 degrees Celsius. Strong winds and low oxygen concentrations make climbing extremely difficult. On clear days, the view from the summit is breathtaking. Looking east you see Lake Sevan, looking west the vast plains of Turkey, and looking south the mountains of Iran.

Mount Ararat is also an important subject in Armenian literature and art. Countless poets have sung of this mountain, painters have depicted it, and composers have created works inspired by it. In the poetry of 19th-century Armenian Romantic poet Hovhannes Tumanyan, Mount Ararat appears prominently.

(Mount Ararat and the Legend of Noah's Ark)

He sang, 'Mount Ararat is our mother and our father, our past and our future.'

With the 20th century and Armenia becoming part of the Soviet Union, and Mount Ararat definitively confirmed as Turkish territory, the mountain became for Armenians a symbol of loss and nostalgia. In 1915, the Armenian Genocide perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire claimed the lives of over 1.5 million Armenians, and hundreds of thousands were scattered across the world, leaving their homeland. For diaspora Armenians, Mount Ararat became a symbol of home to which they would someday return.

The music of Armenia's renowned composer Aram Khachaturian also carries the image of Mount Ararat. In his ballet music 'Gayane,' the 'Sabre Dance' expresses Armenian passion along with longing for Mount Ararat.

In modern Armenia, Mount Ararat remains the most important national symbol. Armenia's state airline changed from Armenia Airways to simply 'Armenia,' and was later privatized with a new name, but many companies and products continue to use the name 'Ararat.' The internationally famous Armenian Cognac brand is called 'Ararat.'

The feelings of the Armenian people are complex. They gaze upon this mountain every day but cannot freely climb it. Since Armenia's independence from the Soviet Union in 1990, the border with Turkey has remained closed, and tension continues between the two nations. The issue of Turkey's recognition of the Armenian Genocide remains unresolved.

Mount Ararat is visible from anywhere in the city streets of Yerevan. While sitting in a cafe sipping coffee, while viewing the evening sunset from a balcony, Armenians naturally gaze upon Mount Ararat. As the sun sets, Mount Ararat turns red as if aflame, and people instinctively try to capture the moment in photographs.

Mount Ararat is also an important spiritual symbol for the Armenian Apostolic Church (Հայ Առաքելական Եկեղեցի). Armenia was the first country in the world to adopt Christianity as its state religion in 301 AD. The Armenian people believe themselves to be descendants of Noah and their land to be blessed ground where new life began after the Flood. Mount Ararat is central to this faith and identity.

Mount Ararat is visible from many Armenian churches and monasteries. Khor Virap (Խոր Վիրապ) is a monastery located nearest to Mount Ararat, where an underground dungeon once held Saint Gregory the Illuminator (Սուրբ Գրիգոր Լուսավորիչ), who brought Christianity to Armenia, for 13 years. The view of Mount Ararat from this place is truly majestic. Beyond the stone walls of the monastery, the massive mountain rises skyward, like a bridge connecting heaven and earth.

(Mount Ararat Visible from Anywhere in Yerevan)

Modern Armenians dream that someday they will be able to freely climb Mount Ararat. Even if that becomes politically impossible, Mount Ararat will forever exist in their hearts. This mountain is Armenia's past, present, and future. Mount Ararat, which has observed the history of this land for thousands of years, will continue to be a beacon of the soul for the Armenian people for generations to come.

3. The Kingdom of Urartu and the Roots of Ancient Civilization

The Kingdom of Urartu, also known as the Urartian Kingdom, was a powerful ancient state that existed on the Armenian Plateau from the ninth century BCE to the sixth century BCE. This kingdom is regarded as the direct predecessor of Armenian civilization and forms an essential foundation of Armenian history.

The name Urartu first appears in Assyrian texts. The Assyrians called the powerful tribes living on the Armenian Plateau 'Urartu'. The Urartians called themselves the 'land of Biainili' or the 'nation of Van'. Their language was related to the Hurrian language, and while there is no direct linguistic continuity with modern Armenian, cultural continuity clearly exists.

The center of the Kingdom of Urartu lay around Lake Van. Lake Van is the largest lake on the Armenian Plateau and currently sits in eastern Turkey. With an area of approximately 3,755 square kilometers, it is three times larger than Lake Sevan and is a salt lake. Tushpa, the capital of Urartu, was built on the eastern shore of Lake Van.

The history of the Kingdom of Urartu can be divided into three major periods. Early Urartu, in the ninth century BCE, began as a confederation of several tribes. Early kings such as Arame and Sarduri I began unifying the tribes while resisting Assyrian pressure. Sarduri I established Tushpa as the capital and built a massive fortress on Van Rock.

The Van Rock Fortress is a representative monument of Urartian civilization. Carved from a massive stone mountain, this fortress reaches approximately one hundred meters in height, with inscriptions in cuneiform script scattered across the rock. These inscriptions record the deeds of Urartian kings and serve as crucial sources for studying Urartian history. Sarduri I's inscription begins with the grand phrase: 'Sarduri, great king, mighty king, king of the universe, king of the land of Biainili.'

The golden age of the Kingdom of Urartu extended from the mid-eighth century to the late eighth century BCE. The representative kings of this period were Menua, Argishti I, and Sarduri II. King Menua greatly expanded the territory and built many cities and fortresses. He also developed Urartu's irrigation system on a grand scale. The Menua Canal, stretching over eighty kilometers, brought water from the mountains to supply agricultural land. Parts of this canal remain in use today.

Cuneiform Inscriptions

Argishti I built many new cities. Most notably, he built the fortress of Erebuni. Constructed in 782 BCE, this fortress became the origin of Yerevan, the capital of Armenia today. The name Yerevan is believed to derive from Erebuni. A cuneiform inscription found at the Erebuni fortress site reads: 'Argishti says: I built this great fortress and named it Erebuni.' This discovery led to Yerevan being recognized as one of the oldest cities in the world.

During the reign of Sarduri II, Urartu boasted its greatest territorial expanse. The kingdom extended north to the region of Georgia, south to northern Syria, east to what is now northwestern Iran, and west to the Euphrates River. During this period, Urartu became a power equal to Assyria and sometimes displayed strength that surpassed it.

Urartu's economy rested on agriculture, herding, and metalwork. Thanks to the fertile soil of the Armenian Plateau and its irrigation systems, wheat, barley, and fruit cultivation flourished. Grape cultivation and wine production developed substantially, and Urartu ranks among the world's oldest wine-producing regions. Herding also played an important role, with sheep, cattle, and horses being raised.

Most renowned was their metalwork. Urartian craftsmen produced intricate artifacts from bronze, gold, and silver. Bronze armor, helmets, and shields showcased the finest quality of the time, while jewelry and vessels crafted from gold and silver reached the level of fine art. These objects served as important trade goods in exchanges with neighboring nations.

Urartian building techniques were remarkably advanced. They possessed the skill to carve and stack massive stones with precision.

This building method, known as cyclopean masonry, allowed stones to fit perfectly together without mortar, remaining solid to this day thousands of years later. This technique was passed down to later Armenian architecture.

Urartian religion was polytheistic. The supreme deity was Haldi, a god of war and sky. In addition, the sun god Shivini and Teisheba, the storm god, were worshipped. The Urartians built enormous temples for these deities. The temple of Musasir was the most important religious center of Urartu, and Assyrian reliefs contain detailed depictions of Assyrian King Sargon II looting this temple.

Cyclopean Masonry

The decline of Urartu began at the end of the seventh century BCE. Several factors combined to bring this about. First, invasions from nomadic peoples such as the Scythians and Cimmerians came from the north. Their cavalry tactics proved difficult to counter with Urartu's traditional methods of warfare. Moreover, the fall of the Assyrian Empire in 612 BCE disrupted the balance of power in the region.

The decisive blow came from the invasion of the Median Empire. Around 590 BCE, Media fully conquered the Kingdom of Urartu. Major cities including Tushpa were destroyed, and Urartu disappeared from history. The culture and traditions of Urartu did not vanish entirely. The people living in the region remained and intermingled with new conquerors, gradually creating a new culture.

Many historians believe that the Armenian people formed in this region after the fall of the Urartian kingdom. The ancient Greek historian Herodotus recorded that the Armenians were people who migrated from Phrygia. As they settled on the old lands of Urartu, they absorbed Urartian culture while bringing with them a new Indo-European language.

There is also a view that Indo-European peoples lived in this region even during the Urartian period, and that the Armenian people formed when these populations gained ascendancy following Urartu's fall. What is clear is that Urartian civilization became an important foundation for Armenian civilization.

The legacy of Urartu is found throughout Armenia today. The Erebuni Museum in Yerevan displays artifacts from the Urartian period. Intricately carved bronze belts, beautiful gold earrings, and clay tablets inscribed with cuneiform script bear witness to the brilliant civilization of Urartu three thousand years ago. Massive bronze cauldrons demonstrate the exceptional metalworking skill of the Urartians.

The ruins of the Erebuni Fortress still stand on a hill southeast of Yerevan. Though much of it has been destroyed, the restored walls and temple foundations allow visitors to sense the grandeur of Urartu. Frescoes discovered at the fortress demonstrate Urartian artistic achievement. Geometric patterns, animal figures, and depictions of gods are rendered in vivid colors.

Another important monument of Urartu is the Garni Fortress in northern Armenia. Though the buildings that remain today were built in later periods, the fortress's foundations date to the Urartian era. Garni contains a Hellenistic temple built in the first century, erected on the site of a former Urartian temple.

The legacy of Urartu extends beyond physical monuments. Urartian irrigation techniques, agricultural methods, and metalworking traditions took deep root in Armenian culture. The wine-making tradition that began in the Urartian period became the foundation of Armenia's wine industry today. In 2011, the discovery of a winery dating back 6,100 years in the Areni caves of southern Armenia proved that this region ranks among the world's oldest wine-producing areas.

Armenians regard Urartu as an important part of their history. Though the languages differed, Urartu was the first powerful state established on the Armenian Plateau and raised the civilization of this land to a new level. Without Urartu, Armenian civilization would have taken a different form.

Research on Urartu continues actively in Armenia. Archaeologists are constantly uncovering new sites, and linguists are deciphering Urartian script. Through these efforts, our understanding of Urartian civilization grows ever deeper. Urartu is not merely an ancient kingdom that vanished from history, but a living heritage that connects to Armenia of today.